Van Cleef & Arpels

Van Cleef & Arpels builds its women’s complications as stories. Since 2006 its Poetic Complications have told them through their mechanisms. On the Lady Arpels Pont des Amoureux, a woman marks the hours, and a man marks the minutes as they cross a Paris bridge. They meet for a kiss at noon and midnight. When a men’s version exists, as with the Midnight Planétarium, Van Cleef makes the women’s watch its counterpart, and the Lady Arpels Planétarium followed in 2018.

I can source any watch, new or used, even very hard-to-get. I chose these examples to guide you.

Lady Arpels Planétarium, frontLady Arpels Planétarium, back

Poetic Complications · 38mm · AutomaticTap to see the back

Lady Arpels Planétarium

$245,000 at launch in 2018

Mercury, Venus, and Earth circle a pink-gold sun at their true speeds, so Earth takes a year to go around once. A diamond moon orbits Earth every 29.5 days. A shooting star tells the time. Christiaan van der Klaauw built the planetarium for Van Cleef & Arpels.

Turn the watch over and you find each planet’s name in French beside the stone that stands for that planet on the dial. A window at 6 o'clock shows the date and month, and one at 3 o'clock shows the year, so you can reset the planets if the watch stops. At the center, the turquoise Earth and diamond moon spin as you wear the watch and wind it.

Midnight Jour Nuit Phase de Lune, frontMidnight Jour Nuit Phase de Lune, back

Midnight · 42mm · Automatic · VCARPESA00Tap to see the back

Midnight Jour Nuit Phase de Lune

About $153,000 at launch in 2026

A disc beneath the starry upper dial turns once a day, showing a gold sun by day and a mother-of-pearl moon by night. A pusher at 8 o'clock turns the dial a full circle in 10 seconds to show the current phase of the moon, even at noon.

The back shows the sky as you would see it from the moon. Van Cleef & Arpels engraved the moon’s craters into a white-gold crescent. Beside it, painted planets and stars turn with the rotor as you move your wrist, and an enamel Earth on the crystal above them stays still.

Midnight in Paris, frontMidnight in Paris, back

Midnight · 41mm · VCARF80700Tap to see the back

Midnight in Paris

From about $48,000

The star chart at the center maps the sky over Paris and turns one full circle a year, so it shows the sky of each season.

A hinged gold lid covers the back. Under the lid, a sapphire crystal shows the movement. The gray, crosshatched band around the edge is a slice of meteorite. Inside it, a ring with the twelve months shows the date, and you set it with a wheel on the back.

Lady Arpels Papillon Automate, frontLady Arpels Papillon Automate, back

Poetic Complications · 40mm · Automatic · VCARO8PN00Tap to see the back

Lady Arpels Papillon Automate

About $328,000 at launch in 2017

A butterfly on the dial beats its wings at random every two to four minutes, and more often while the watch is on the wrist. It also flutters on demand when you press the button on the side of the case.

Van Cleef & Arpels engraved grasses, flowers, a butterfly, and stars into the white-gold back. A round window shows the rotor, decorated with a crescent moon and a lily. The rotor turns as you wear the watch and winds it.

Lady Féerie, frontLady Féerie, back

Poetic Complications · 33mm · Automatic · VCARO8ZD00Tap to see the back

Lady Féerie

About $118,000 at launch in 2020

With her wand, a fairy points to the minutes, and the hour appears in a window in the moon. Her translucent wings combine two kinds of enamel, and Van Cleef & Arpels says it had never used the two together on one motif before.

The rotor under the back crystal shows an engraved full moon and stars. As the rotor turns, the moon and stars pass behind clouds fixed to the crystal.

Lady Jour Nuit, frontLady Jour Nuit, back

Poetic Complications · 33mm · Automatic · VCARPBLR00Tap to see the back

Lady Jour Nuit

About $98,000 at launch in 2024

A disc under the aventurine-glass sky turns once a day, so a gold sun shows by day and a diamond-paved moon by night. Van Cleef & Arpels spent three years updating its 2008 Lady Arpels Jour Nuit, and the new Lady Jour Nuit won the Ladies' Watch Prize at the 2024 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève.

On the back crystal, a fairy in enamel and platinum kneels and watches the sun rise. Behind her, polished stars and two shooting stars on the rotor turn whenever you move.

More about Van Cleef & Arpels

Alfred Van Cleef married Estelle Arpels in 1895, and in 1906 he and her brothers opened a jewelry shop at 22 Place Vendôme in Paris. In 1933 the house patented the Mystery Set, which holds stones on hidden gold rails so no metal shows between them.

In 1935 it introduced the Cadenas, a watch shaped like a padlock on a snake-chain bracelet, with the dial turned toward the wearer. In its Poetic Complications, the company uses mechanical movements to tell small stories on the dial. In the Pont des Amoureux of 2010, two lovers walk toward each other on a bridge and meet at noon and midnight. Richemont bought the company in 1999.