Glashütte Original

Glashütte Original turned this movement over, so the balance wheel and the decorated plate that normally faces the caseback appear on the dial, where you can watch the balance swing. A solid gold moon on an aventurine disc shows the moon phase. Glashütte Original limits the platinum edition to 200.

The hours and minutes appear off center at the left, with the flying tourbillon below them and the moon phase and large date on the right. A hand on the tourbillon cage shows the seconds, and Glashütte Original says it arranged the dial by the golden ratio.

Glashütte made 50 of these in platinum. Resetting the tourbillon to zero also moves the minute hand to the next marker, so you can set the time to the second, and each watch passes a 15-day chronometer test.

Alfred Helwig invented the flying tourbillon in Glashütte in 1920. This tribute, 25 pieces in rose gold, puts the tourbillon on the back of the movement, as in his day, and keeps going 100 hours on a full wind.

This perpetual calendar tracks the date, weekday, month, leap year, and moon phase, and needs no correction for more than a century. It keeps going 100 hours on a full wind.

Glashütte made 180 of these in platinum for 180 years of watchmaking in the town, with a dark blue aventurine dial and mother-of-pearl moons.

A state office tests each watch for 15 days, in five positions and three temperatures. When you pull the crown, the seconds hand stops at zero, and the minute hand jumps from marker to marker, so you can set the time exactly.