A rose gold Franck Muller Cintrée Curvex with tourbillon, in warm light

Franck Muller

Franck Muller, a Geneva-trained watchmaker, made his name in the 1980s with complicated watches. In 1991 he founded the company with the case maker Vartan Sirmakes. It works from Watchland, a mansion in Genthod, outside Geneva.

I can source any watch, new or used, even very hard-to-get. I chose these examples to guide you.

Cintrée Curvex Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Bi-Retro, front

Cintrée Curvex · 39 × 55mm · 8880 CC QP B

Cintrée Curvex Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Bi-Retro

From about $16,000

Two arcs show the day of the week on the left and the date on the right, and each hand returns to the start when the week or month ends. The calendar shows the right date at the end of every month, leap years included, until 2100, and the watch also has a chronograph and a moon phase.

Aeternitas 4, three-quarter

Aeternitas · 42 × 61mm · Automatic · 8888 T QPS

Aeternitas 4

About $128,000 to $138,000 at auction

Franck Muller launched the Aeternitas 4 in 2006. Its calendar shows the year in a window below the center, and a small dial shows the equation of time, the gap between clock time and sundial time. Two more small dials show extra time zones, and a tourbillon turns at 6.

Vanguard Aero Revolution 3 Skeleton, front

Vanguard · 44 × 53.7mm · Manual wind · V 45 AERO REV 3 SQT MVT5N NR LTD 5N

Vanguard Aero Revolution 3 Skeleton

Around $600,000

Three nested cages turn the tourbillon on three different axes, and windows on four sides of the case show the movement from the sides as well as the front. One full winding keeps the watch going for 10 days, and Franck Muller makes 8 of each version.

Vanguard Tourbillon Minute Repeater Skeleton, front

Vanguard · 46 × 55.9mm · Manual wind · V 50 L RM T SQT (NR)

Vanguard Tourbillon Minute Repeater Skeleton

About $273,000 at launch in 2018

A slide on the left side of the case starts the chime, and the watch strikes the hours, quarter hours, and minutes. Franck Muller cut the dial away to show the whole movement, with the tourbillon turning at 6.

Vanguard Racing Vegas Limited Edition, three-quarterVanguard Racing Vegas Limited Edition, back

Vanguard Racing · 44 × 53.7mm · V 45 VEGAS SQT RCG CARBON ERTap to see the back

Vanguard Racing Vegas Limited Edition

$45,000 at launch in 2023

Franck Muller made 23 of these for the 2023 Las Vegas Grand Prix and sold them only through Neiman Marcus. When you press the button on the crown, a center hand spins around the roulette wheel and stops on a random number.

Cintrée Curvex Vegas, front

Cintrée Curvex · 34 × 47mm · Automatic · 6850 VEGAS D

Cintrée Curvex Vegas

From about $25,000

One of my favorite watches (though I don't prefer the diamonds). You push the little button on the crown and the curly hand whirls round and round quickly, until you let go, and it stops randomly on one of the slots. It really works! It comes in all metals and many dials and diamond options. SJX calls the Vegas a bestseller for Franck Muller and says casino watches from other brands followed it.

Cintrée Curvex Crazy Hours Répétition Minutes Tourbillon, front

Cintrée Curvex · 37 × 52.4mm · Manual wind · 7885 RM T CH

Cintrée Curvex Crazy Hours Répétition Minutes Tourbillon

About $409,000 at launch in 2025

When you see "curvex," that means the case is curved to fit your wrist better than a flat back. It matters on a longer watch like this. On a Crazy Hours dial the numerals are out of order, and at each new hour the hour hand jumps to the matching numeral. In this version, Franck Muller added a tourbillon at 6 and a minute repeater, which chimes the time on demand. It came out in 2025, twenty years after the first Crazy Hours Tourbillon. At under $500,000, it's a very good value.

Master Date, front

Cintrée Curvex · 39 × 55mm · Automatic · 8880 GD

Master Date

About $11,000 to $19,000 at auction

One of my favorite watches, a classic. A hand sweeps an arc of weekdays across the upper half of the dial and returns to Monday when the week ends. A large date fills a window below 12, and the small dial at 6 shows the month along with the running seconds. Franck Muller made it around 2006.

Vanguard Gravity Skeleton, front

Vanguard · 44 × 53.7mm · Manual wind · V 45 T GR CS SQT BR (NR)

Vanguard Gravity Skeleton

From about $152,000

Franck Muller built the Gravity around an oval tourbillon cage 21.2mm across, with the balance wheel set off center inside it. On this black skeleton version, Franck Muller colored the cage, hands, and markers blue.

Vanguard Gravity Skeleton, front

Vanguard · 44 × 53.7mm · Manual wind · V 45 T GR CS SQT (NR) 5N

Vanguard Gravity Skeleton

$130,000 to $160,000

Franck Muller made this case in rose gold and colored the openwork frame inside it to match. The oversized oval tourbillon cage turns once a minute, in full view through the open dial.

More about Franck Muller

In 1992 the company announced a watch it called the most complicated wristwatch in the world, and it later made the Aeternitas Mega 4, with 36 complications. Its Cintrée Curvex case curves in three directions. The Crazy Hours of 2003 scrambles the hour numerals, and a jumping hour hand still shows the right time. The company remains independent.