Louis-François Cartier took over his master's jewelry workshop in Paris in 1847. His grandsons Louis, Pierre, and Jacques built the house into an international jeweler with shops in Paris, London, and New York.
Louis Cartier made the Santos in 1904 for his friend Alberto Santos-Dumont, an aviator who wanted to read the time without taking his hands off the controls. It became one of the first wristwatches made for a man. The Tank followed in 1917. The family sold the business in the 1960s and 1970s, and today Cartier is part of Richemont.
I can source any watch, new or used, even very hard-to-get. I chose these examples to guide you.
Santos-Dumont · 31.4 × 43.5mm · Automatic · WHSA0030Tap to see the back
About $44,000 new in 2026
Cartier fixed a small gold model of the Demoiselle, the light plane Alberto Santos-Dumont built, to the winding rotor at 7 o'clock, and the plane swings as you move. Because Cartier put the small rotor inside the movement, you can see the open framework, and the watch stays 8mm thick.
Santos de Cartier · 39.8 × 47.5mm · Automatic · WGSA0110Tap to see the back
About $74,000 new in 2026
The 2019 model had one pusher on the left side. For 2026, Cartier made the Santos chronograph smaller and moved its pushers to 2 and 4 o'clock, beside the crown. You can resize the gold bracelet or swap it for the included alligator strap without tools.
Tank · 25.7 × 32.6mm · Manual wind · WHTA0032
$71,000 new in 2026
Cartier makes this Tank Normale entirely in platinum, case and bracelet, with a ruby set in the crown. Louis Cartier designed the Tank in 1917.
Tortue · 34.8 × 43.7mm · Manual wind · WHTO0012
$65,000 new in 2026
One pusher starts, stops, and resets the chronograph. Louis Cartier drew the tortoise-shaped case in 1912, and Cartier first put a single-button chronograph in it in 1928.
Tank · 25.5 × 33.7mm · Manual wind · WGTA0011Tap to see the back
About $16,000 new in 2026
Cartier makes this classic Tank in rose gold, only 6.6mm thick, with a movement of its own.
Ballon Bleu de Cartier · 42mm · Automatic · WGBB0030
About $20,000 new in 2026
Cartier introduced the Ballon Bleu in 2007, named for the blue sapphire crown tucked inside a guard on the case. This version is rose gold, buckle included.